Ithaki, Greece: The Ultimate Travel Guide to Odysseus’s Island

Last Updated on 7 August 2025 by Johan

Ithaki (Ithaca) is a small, mountainous island in the Ionian Sea celebrated as the mythical home of Odysseus. With just under 3,000 residents, Ithaki blends dramatic cliffs, olive-studded valleys, and sheltered bays into a tranquil getaway that resists mass tourism.

Geography and Climate

Ithaki covers approximately 96 km² and stretches about 24 km from north to south. Its highest peak is Niritos at 806 m, followed by Merovigli at 668 m. The island’s indented coastline features more than 100 km of shoreline, from rocky coves to sandy patches.

Ithaki enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers (June–September) and mild, wet winters (November–March). April–May and late September–October bring ideal conditions for hiking, swimming, and touring villages in comfortable temperatures.

Getting There and Getting Around

Ithaki has no airport. Most visitors arrive by ferry from nearby islands or mainland ports:

  • From Kefalonia: Daily car and passenger ferries link Sami to Ferry Vathi (crossing in about 45 minutes).
  • From Lefkada and Mainland Greece: Seasonal ferries run to Kioni and Frikes.

On the island, transport options include rented cars, scooters, and limited KTEL bus services connecting Vathi with major villages. Taxis can be pre-booked, and private boat charters offer access to remote beaches.

Main Towns and Villages

Vathi (Capital)
Set around one of the world’s largest natural harbors, Vathi features red-tiled houses, narrow lanes, the Ithaki Archaeological Museum, and a waterfront lined with cafés and tavernas.

Kioni and Frikes
These twin fishing villages on the northeast coast retain Venetian towers and windmills. Both offer waterfront seafood restaurants, diving centers, and boat trips to secluded coves.

Perachori, Exogi, Stavros, Anogi
Mountain-top villages like Perachori (300 m elevation) and Anogi (400 m) showcase stone-built houses, family-run guesthouses, and panoramic views over the Ionian Sea. Local olive oil producers often welcome visitors for tastings.

History, Myth, and Culture

Ithaki’s name dates to classical antiquity. According to Homer’s Odyssey, Odysseus ruled here after the Trojan War. Key sites:

  • Cave of the Nymphs: Northwest of Vathi, where Odysseus is said to have hidden his treasures.
  • Monastery of Panagia Kathariotissa: 14th-century mountaintop monastery with frescoes and a view of the entire island.
  • Lazareto Islet: A small island guarding Vathi’s harbor, home to a 19th-century quarantine station and Venetian fortifications.

Beaches and Outdoor Activities

Ithaki’s coastline is ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Notable beaches include:

  • Gidaki: Sheltered bay with turquoise waters, reached by foot or boat.
  • Filiatro: Pebbled crescent near Exogi, backed by olive groves.
  • Aspros Lakkos: White-sand beach on the southwestern shore, accessed via country roads.

Hiking trails crisscross ridges and valleys—routes range from easy coastal walks to strenuous ascents of Niritos. Local operators offer guided hikes, mountain-bike rentals, and sea-kayaking tours.

Accommodation and Dining

Ithaki’s lodging options span family-run guesthouses in mountain hamlets to small hotels in Vathi, Kioni, and Frikes. Many properties overlook the sea and offer local breakfasts featuring honey, olives, and fresh fruit.

Tavernas focus on seafood (rockfish, octopus) and traditional dishes like bourdeto (spicy fish stew) and stamnagathi (wild greens). Don’t miss locally produced olive oil and mantolato nougat as souvenirs.

Practical Tips

  • Cash is preferred; ATMs are available in Vathi only.
  • Greek is the official language; English is widely spoken in tourism areas.
  • Water shortages can occur in summer—bottled water is recommended.
  • Mobile coverage is good, but some inland roads may lack signal.

References to Official Sources