Last Updated on 30 March 2026 by Johan
Hawes sits high in Upper Wensleydale, in North Yorkshire, United Kingdom, right in the middle of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The town’s name comes from an old word for a mountain pass, and when you arrive it makes sense: Hawes lies between the surrounding fells, with stone houses clustered around the main street and the market place. I remember the first time I drove in over the moorland; the town seemed to appear suddenly in the valley, with dry-stone walls and green fields dropping away toward the River Ure.
Hawes has been a market town for centuries, with a market recorded here since the early 14th century and a royal charter granted in the late 17th century. That long history still shapes the rhythm of the place. On market day, the streets feel busier, farmers’ vehicles edge into town, and visitors weave between stalls and shops. Even on quieter days, Hawes carries that sense of being a small hub for the surrounding dale, a place where people naturally come together.
Hawes UK and its landscape in Upper Wensleydale
Hawes is surrounded by the classic scenery of Upper Wensleydale: stone barns, patchwork fields, and the high ground of Fleet Moss and Buttertubs Pass. The town stands about 260 metres above sea level, which makes Hawes one of the highest market towns in England. You feel that height in the wind that often whistles down the main street and in the wide views that open up as soon as you step a little way out of town. At the same time, the valley floor feels sheltered, with the River Ure flowing quietly below.
Because Hawes lies within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, the surrounding countryside is carefully protected. Footpaths lead out in almost every direction, and it is surprisingly easy to leave the bustle of Hawes behind and find yourself walking beside a stone wall with only sheep for company. I have sometimes hesitated at a gate, wondering if I had taken the right path, only to turn and see Hawes framed perfectly in the distance, its roofs and chimneys gathered around the church tower.
Hawes UK and the story of Wensleydale cheese
Hawes is closely associated with Wensleydale cheese, which has been made in this dale for many centuries. The tradition began with monks who brought cheese-making skills to the area, and over time it evolved into the crumbly, creamy cheese that people now recognise as Wensleydale. Today, Hawes is home to a major creamery and visitor centre where cheese is still produced using milk from local farms in Wensleydale.
Visitors to Hawes can watch cheese-making demonstrations, learn about the history of Wensleydale cheese and, of course, taste different varieties. Even if you are not usually a cheese enthusiast, it is hard not to be drawn in by the sight of the process and the smell of the maturing rooms. Walking back into Hawes afterwards, carrying a wedge of cheese in a paper bag, feels like taking a small piece of the town’s story with you.
Hawes UK market traditions and town life
The market in Hawes still takes place on Tuesdays, continuing a tradition that goes back hundreds of years. On market day, stalls line the streets and the town feels particularly lively. You might find local produce, clothing, tools and all sorts of everyday items. It is not a polished, tourist-only market; instead, Hawes market serves both residents and visitors, which gives it a more genuine atmosphere.
Alongside the market, Hawes has a good range of shops, cafés and small galleries. Many are housed in old stone buildings, so even a simple errand can feel like a small step into the past. I have sometimes ducked into a café in Hawes just to escape a sudden shower, then ended up staying longer than planned, watching people pass by the window and listening to the mix of local accents and visitors’ voices.
Museums, crafts and local heritage
Hawes is also home to the Dales Countryside Museum, located in the old railway station. The museum explores the history and traditions of the Yorkshire Dales, from farming and mining to domestic life and local crafts. It is the kind of place where you go in expecting a quick look around and then realise you have been there much longer, drawn in by old photographs, tools and stories of everyday life.
Traditional crafts still have a place in Hawes. Rope making, for example, has long been associated with the town, and visitors can see how this skill is kept alive today. There are also opportunities to see pottery being made and to browse local artwork. These small details help Hawes feel like more than just a pretty backdrop; they show how people have worked and adapted here over time.
Hawes walks, waterfalls and nearby highlights
Hawes makes an excellent base for walking. From the town, paths lead to nearby villages, over moorland and along the valley. One of the most famous local attractions is Hardraw Force, a dramatic waterfall just north of Hawes, reached by a short walk. Further along the dale, Aysgarth Falls offers another impressive series of cascades. Both places are close enough that you can easily visit them on a day based in Hawes.
Because Hawes lies on important walking routes through the Dales, including long-distance paths, you will often see walkers arriving with rucksacks and muddy boots. At first I wondered if the town might feel overrun, but the flow of people seems to suit Hawes. It adds a sense of movement and purpose, while the core of the town remains small and welcoming.
Hawes places to stay and practical details
Hawes offers a variety of accommodation, from traditional inns and guest houses to self-catering cottages and nearby campsites. Some places are in the centre of Hawes, close to the shops and market, while others sit just outside the town with views across the fields. There are also working farms in the area that offer bed and breakfast stays, which can be a memorable way to experience the rhythms of rural life.
Reaching Hawes usually involves travelling by road, as the town no longer has a passenger railway station. However, bus services connect Hawes with other towns in the Dales and beyond, and the journey itself is part of the experience, with roads winding through moorland and valleys. Parking is available in and around Hawes, though on busy days it can be worth arriving a little earlier than you think you need to.
Hawes UK through the seasons
Hawes changes character with the seasons. In spring, lambs appear in the fields around the town and the hillsides start to turn a brighter green. Summer brings longer days, more walkers and a livelier feel in the streets. In autumn, the colours deepen and the air turns sharper, while winter can be quiet and atmospheric, with the possibility of snow on the surrounding tops. I have sometimes hesitated about visiting Hawes in less-than-perfect weather, but those days often turn out to be the most memorable, with clouds drifting low over the fells and the town feeling especially cosy.
Tip from a local: If you have a little time in Hawes, walk a short way out of the centre toward the surrounding fields and then turn back to look at the town. From just a few minutes up the lane, Hawes suddenly looks smaller and more self-contained, and you get a clear sense of how it sits in the curve of the valley.